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Outdoor Coldwater Fish

How to care for pond fish

Ponds are popular garden features in the UK and are often filled with various species of fish including goldfish, koi, sturgeon, orfe, rudd and tench. All of these species (except sturgeon) are members of the Cyprinidae family and can be widely found throughout Asia and Europe. Due to their popularity, the majority are captive bred.

Water requirements

Fish which are stocked in ponds are generally tolerant of a range of water parameters. Ideally, ponds should be kept within the parameters shown below. At times, this may be difficult to achieve as ponds are often subject to external changes. Frequent water testing is essential to ensure any potential issues are caught early on.

Temperature: between 4-24°C
pH: 6.5-8.5
Ammonia: Zero mg per litre
Nitrite: Zero mg per litre
Nitrate: Not to exceed 20 mg per litre above normal tap water levels
General hardness: Medium-hard (8-18°dH)

Carbonate hardness: Medium-hard (5-15°dkH)

Biology

Tench, orfe and koi can grow up to 75cm in length and therefore benefit from being kept in a larger pond. Koi are perhaps the most famous pond fish with multiple colour varieties available, however, they are slightly more delicate than other species and require good water quality with minimal fluctuations. There are different colours of orfe and they should be kept in groups of four or five otherwise they are likely to become stressed. Tench can be found in different colours (dark green and gold) and associate with the bottom of the pond.

Sturgeon will grow very large, with adults reaching 200cm, however 100cm is more likely in a garden pond. They can be kept singly, but will require a large pond and cool, highly oxygenated water.

Goldfish remain smaller making them appropriate for most pond systems. The most common maximum body length is up to 30cm. There are several popular colour varieties including shubunkins, sarasa, and red comets. Rudd also remain smaller than the other species, unlikely to grow over 40cm, and will benefit from being kept in groups.

All of these fish can thrive for many years in a healthy pond with good water quality. There are reports of goldfish living up to 20 years, but the larger species could live even longer.

Pond requirements

Ponds for fish should ideally be at least 45-60cm deep, preferably over 90cm for koi and over 120cm for sturgeon. This ensures more stable temperatures, a cool zone at the bottom in warm spells, and a warmer area at the bottom in freezing winters. The pond should receive some sunlight as this helps to promote plant growth and to maintain warmer water throughout the spring and summer months. Shallower ledges around the edges of the pond will help you to grow a wider variety of plants. Live plants are recommended as they will provide oxygen, remove pollutants and provide food either directly or by supporting microorganisms. Too much sunlight may cause temperature issues for the species that prefer cooler waters or drive high algal growth. It is also advisable to avoid any overhanging trees or other large plants which might drop leaves into the pond. If this is not possible, use an autumn cover net as required.

Goldfish and rudd are suitable for most smaller pond systems. Koi, tench and orfe get larger and it is recommended they are kept in a pond of 4,500 litres or more. Adult sturgeon require much larger ponds of around 10,000 litres. Regardless of size, any pond which holds livestock should have a filter as this helps to prevent the build-up of toxic ammonia and nitrite. A pump or fountain will be beneficial as it helps to circulate and oxygenate the water.

Koi and sturgeon require specialist ponds and equipment including filtration systems, pumps, and UV filters to keep the water clear by reducing the amount of algae floating in the water. Sturgeon in particular have a very high demand for dissolved oxygen. Therefore, it is advisable to ask us for advice regarding what is required to maintain these fish before purchase.

It is advisable to cover your pond with a net to prevent wild birds or animals predating on them, especially over winter when there is little shelter from plants. It may also be worth adding a pond net after adding new fish into the pond as fish are more likely to attempt jumping out during the first couple of weeks in a new environment.

Water testing kits are essential so that water quality can be checked on a regular basis (once a week) to ensure it does not slip below the water requirements stated above.

Introducing your fish

Before adding any fish, seek advice from us to make sure that your pond is an appropriate size for the number of fish you would like to keep. Check that the water quality in your pond is suitable i.e. levels of ammonia and nitrite are zero. Only increase the number of fish you have in your pond slowly as the population of beneficial bacteria

established when maturing your filter need to increase every time more fish are added and feeding increases. Overstocking or stocking your pond too quickly can result in ‘new pond syndrome’. This occurs when there are not enough nitrifying bacteria to cope with the increased waste from the fish, leading to unhealthy levels of ammonia and nitrite, which may cause fish to become ill or die. Healthy fish have clear bright eyes, undamaged fins, intact scales, no ulcerations or bumps, appropriate swimming behaviour and steady breathing. Do not purchase a seemingly healthy fish if sickly fish are present in the tank with it. Signs of disease can include clamped fins, flicking against gravel or décor and shimmying (shaking). Diseases can be easily carried by fish that do not show any clinical signs. If in doubt, ask us for advice as we have in-depth knowledge and experience.

We will usually sell your fish to you in a plastic bag. Try not to keep them in this for too long. Once purchased, take your new fish home as quickly as possible because fish are easily stressed by bright lights, extreme temperatures, noise and movement.

Once home, your fish will need to acclimatise to their new environment and a common method to do this known as the ‘floating bag’ method. Take the bag containing your new fish out of its outer wrappings carefully, avoiding exposure to bright light. Float the bag in the water of your pond to ensure the temperature in the bag is the same as the pond water. After 10 minutes, slowly introduce small amounts of pond water into the bag containing the fish. Once complete, carefully release the fish into the pond whilst introducing as little bag water into the pond as possible. After this, dispose of the bag and any excess water appropriately. Monitor your new fish carefully for the first week, paying particular attention to water quality. If in doubt, contact us for advice.

Maintenance

Test the water to monitor the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels, together with pH and water hardness every week, especially during initial set-up and after adding extra fish. Any build-up of waste such as ammonia and nitrite can lead to health problems in the fish and some pollutants such as nitrate and phosphate can induce the growth of unsightly algal growth such as blanket weed or ‘green water’. Ensure that any new tap water entering the pond is treated with tap water conditioner to remove any harmful chlorine or chloramine present.

As winter sets in, dead plants and leaves should be removed, and marginal plants should be trimmed back. Otherwise rotting vegetation will break down in the pond and can release toxic gases and chemicals. It is advisable to add a pond heater or floating device to ensure that the surface of the pond does not become sealed with ice. The frequency at which you need to service your filter will depend on your filter type, size and stocking level, and we will be able to advise you on this. However, monitoring the water flow from your filter is important as it will help indicate that the unit is working correctly. If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacterial population that has established in the media. Instead, it should be rinsed lightly in the pond water which is removed during a partial water change as this reduces the amount of bacteria which are lost.

If the system has a UV unit, you should normally replace the bulb yearly but check the manufacturer’s recommendations. Be particularly vigilant about monitoring your fish for signs of diseases as the temperature rises. The immune system can be weakened following the cooler temperatures of the winter months. Similarly, it is recommended to re-introduce feeding slowly when temperatures start to increase, as bacterial populations in the filter may take some time to recover.

What to watch out for

All fish will have slight variations in their behaviour or appearance, but keeping an eye on any changes in the following will help to identify any potential problems before they become a real health issue:

swimming behaviour – hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom or erratic swimming 

colour – turning a darker or paler colour than normal
temperament – changes in level of aggression or hiding more than normal
breathing – gill covers moving at a slower or faster rate than normal

appearance – development of white spots or fluffy growths, loss of fins or scales 

condition – increase or decrease in body weight and condition
feeding – reduced intake or lack of interest in food

If you are concerned about the health of any of your livestock, then test your water quality and contact us for further guidance.

Feeding

Most pond fish are omnivores, normally feeding upon insects and plant matter. Their metabolism and appetite tends to follow rises and falls in water temperature. Summer feeding will promote growth and can be used to build up the body reserves of your fish for the cooler winter months, so a high protein food should be used. In very warm summers, over-feeding must be avoided, so ask your retailer for advice. As the water temperature falls, it is best to swap to a lower protein, more digestible food such as wheatgerm. If the temperature falls below 8 oC, it may be better not to feed at all. However, sturgeon should continue to be fed all year round, even at lower temperatures. It is recommended to re-introduce feeding slowly when temperatures start to increase in the spring. There are specialised feeds for different species. For example, sturgeon require a high protein and oil content and a sinking pellet whereas goldfish may prefer a more balanced floating feed. Colour-enhancing foods can be purchased to bring out the colour of your fish. Different sized pellets are also available to suit different sizes of fish. Pond fish should only be fed what they can eat within a few minutes once a day. Take care not to overfeed as this can lead to a build-up of uneaten food which breaks down releasing toxic waste into the water. If in doubt, ask us for advice on appropriate feeding levels.

Compatibility

Most pond fish are compatible with each other, but they may require slightly different conditions to be kept successfully. For example, sturgeon will not thrive in the slow-moving, low-oxygen and high-nutrient conditions that goldfish are kept in. Always ask us for the specific requirements of the species you would like to keep.

Breeding

Goldfish are the most likely to successfully spawn. Generally, if there are more adult males than females, and the temperature reaches the correct level, there may be spontaneous spawning events. A shallow area should be provided, which is heavily planted to increase the chances of the fry surviving. Goldfish are not good parents and will eat the eggs before they can develop and also their fry if they hatch.

Koi can be aggressive during breeding and the process can stress the fish, causing permanent damage to the females and, in severe cases, death. This is more likely to happen if the pool contains more males than females. It is important to monitor behaviour and stocking levels to ensure fish are not stressed.

Checklist

Before purchase make sure:

1. You have the appropriate equipment and position for the aquarium.
2. You have researched all the species in which you are interested and your final choices
   are all compatible.
3. You are familiar with how to transport and release your fish.
4. You are aware of the daily, weekly and monthly maintenance your aquarium will
   require.
5. You are prepared to look after your fish properly for the duration of their life.

Shopping List

Glass or acrylic aquarium
Filter*
Heater
Lighting (required for live plants)* Gravel or sand

Tap water conditioner/dechlorinator

*may be included in branded aquarium sets but can be purchased separately.

Water testing kits (ideally ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and water hardness) Gravel cleaner/siphon cleaning device (recommended)

Aquarium decorations and/or live plants Bucket for water changes

Before purchase make sure:

The aquarium is of a suitable size that ideally can accommodate the fish once they are fully grown
Water parameters are as advised in this leaflet.
Pond is cycled and ready to receive fish.

Always buy...

test kits and regularly check the water for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH. This will allow you to make sure the water in your aquarium is not causing welfare problems for your pond fish.

Maintain...

the water in the aquarium within the accepted parameters highlighted above. You may need to do regular water changes to achieve this.

Never siphon by mouth...

A fish tank can harbour bacteria which can be harmful if swallowed. Buy a specially designed aquarium gravel cleaner which can be started or primed without the need to place the siphon in your mouth

Establish a routine...

for testing the water in your aquarium. Record your results to enable you to identify fluctuations quickly. Also check the temperature of the water.

Always wash your hands...

making sure to rinse off all soap residues, before putting them into your aquarium, or use long sleeved rubber gloves. Wash your hands again afterwards and certainly before eating, drinking or smoking.

The Animal Welfare Act 2006 states that all pet owners have a legal duty of care to their pets. Anyone who is cruel to an animal or is found not to be providing the five animal welfare needs, as listed below, can be prosecuted.

A suitable environment e.g. appropriately sized tank (with water heater if tropical set up) within a suitable location in your home.
A suitable diet which meets the needs of your chosen fish.
Behaviour - Fish are able to exhibit their normal behaviour e.g. hiding places for timid fish, enough room for fish to swim freely.

Companionship - Ensure you know whether your chosen fish need to be kept with, or apart from, other fish.
Health - Protected from pain, injury, suffering & disease e.g. you are aware of the daily, weekly and monthly maintenance that your aquarium will need.

How to set up and maintain a garden pond

Ponds make an attractive feature in any garden and are an immensely enjoyable and rewarding hobby for both adults and children alike. They are also a valuable addition to your garden, helping to attract and support wildlife - for more information on creating a pond suitable for wildlife please see our How to set up a wildlife pond care sheet. This leaflet aims to help you in what to consider when setting up and maintaining a garden pond and to ensure that your fishes’ welfare needs are met.

As a general rule you should, within reason, plan for a pond as big as possible and it should be able to accommodate your chosen fish once they are fully grown. Conditions in a larger pond are also more stable and less susceptible to variations in temperature, pH etc than smaller ponds.

Ponds can be as large or as small as you want. They can range from a small, preformed pond for a few small species, up to a much larger and more technical set-up designed for koi. Always decide what species you wish to keep and ask us if they have any specialist requirements before designing your pond.

Planning your pond

Once you have decided what species you wish to keep, position your pond so that:

it is level and does not have a ‘high end’.
it should ideally receive 4-6 hours of sunlight every day to allow plant growth, but is not fully exposed all day. Ponds can be placed in less-than-ideal conditions, but very sunny spots may encourage growth of nuisance algae, whereas excessive shade may limit plant growth.
there is a small area of shade, although this can be provided by plants added later.
it is not too close to trees since they will drop leaves and their roots are difficult to dig through.
a safe electricity source is easily accessible.

You will also need a filtration system in order to keep fish successfully. If you do not want to keep fish, then please see our How to set up and maintain a wildlife pond care sheet for further information. Filters come in many shapes and sizes, but there are also other pieces of equipment that may be required such as an air pump, UV steriliser or fountain, depending on the pond you would like to keep. Ask us for advice on your specific set up.

Installing your pond

Once you have decided where you want your pond, the next step is to decide what type of pond would work best for you. Ponds are commonly constructed using two main methods, namely preformed ponds or liners. There are other methods such as brickwork and on-site fibre glassing, but this is best undertaken by experienced professionals.

Preformed ponds are made of plastic or fibre glass, built to set sizes which can be put straight into the ground. It is best to choose a pond with a depth of at least 60cm so that it has an area of stable water temperature all year round. It should also have some shelves to allow plants to be placed in the shallows. It is then time to start digging a hole large enough for the pond, ensuring that any sharp objects are removed. Once the hole is dug, it is best to put in a layer of soil or sand at the bottom to protect the pond and put the preformed pond inside, ensuring it is level using a spirit level. Fill the pond in stages and backfill the hole with sand or soil, ensuring the pond remains level throughout the process.

Liners provide much more flexibility and can be bought in custom sizes, allowing a pond of almost any shape or size to be constructed. It is important to oversize your liner to ensure that it will fit the pond when full of water and leave sufficient overlap for your chosen edging - ask your OATA retailer for guidance. First plan the size and shape of the pond by marking it out on the ground to be dug. Begin digging, ensuring that you leave shelves in places and it is at least 60cm deep in some parts. Once the area of the pond is dug out, ensure that no sharp objects are present. It is then best to install an underlay to protect the liner. Once this is in place, lay out the liner loosely in the hole and make sure there is an excess hanging over the edges. Slowly fill the pond with water using a hose pipe, lifting the liner to remove any wrinkles and folding the liner into any corners. The weight of the water will push the liner firmly into place. Once the pond is full, the excess liner needs to be held in place with either paving or stonework being popular choices. If stones and rocks are used around the top edge, you may need extra liner to create a shallow shelf, and then bring the excess liner up behind the rocks. Take care with limestone rocks in ponds as they can fragment in frosty weather. Avoid mortar (from paving) falling into the pond since even a small amount of fresh mortar can make the water dangerously alkaline and harmful to fish.

Once your pond is full, the water needs to be dechlorinated. This can be achieved by either leaving it to stand for at least 24 hours allowing the chlorine to dissipate, or by using a commercial dechlorinator which will also remove any heavy metals found in the tap water. The equipment should then be installed, switched on and left running for at least 24 hours to allow you to check for any leaks and for the water temperature to stabilise. Plants can be added during installation, and adding a broad range of marginal, submerged and floating plants can all help start the process of the pond maturation. Fish are best added after the submerged plants have had time to settle in and the filter has been matured (see below).

An important factor to consider is wildlife predation or feeding on fish from your pond, particularly by otters and herons which are protected species. It is an offence to disturb an otter at its place of rest, shelter or breeding, either intentionally or unintentionally. It is also a criminal offence to disturb, destroy or tamper with its place of rest, shelter or breeding holts, either intentionally or unintentionally. To be found guilty of such an offence carries a penalty of a maximum of ten years imprisonment and/or a fine of £5,000. Otters are most likely to predate upon pond fish in the winter as they move away from rivers and streams. The following guidelines can help you reduce predation on your pond fish by otters, alongside other wildlife.

Consider placing heavy gauge mesh over your pond during the winter months (normal pond netting will not be effective).
Outside lights may deter predators.
At present, sonic devices are untested to the frequencies of an otter’s hearing range. Simple one strand, low voltage electric fencing place around the edge of your pond may help deter herons. Multi-strand fencing may be needed to deter otters.

If the fish in your pond are predated upon and you notice dead fish, move any surviving fish to a protected holding pond, and leave your main pond empty.
Do not restock your pond straight away if it is affected by predators.
Other species, such as herons, can be dissuaded by using 15-100mm square netting held 30cm above the water.

Maturing your pond filter

Before you begin maturing your filter, you will need test kits to regularly measure the water quality and ensure that it is suitable for fish: these kits should test for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH.

Your pond filter then needs to ‘mature’. Waste products from your fish and any leftover uneaten food contribute to ammonia (NH3) levels, which together with nitrites (NO2-) are highly toxic to fish. However, there are beneficial bacteria (known as nitrifiers) which can quickly break down ammonia and nitrite to the much less toxic nitrates (NO3-). These beneficial bacteria will not be present in a new pond filter, so the process of maturing your filter (called cycling) involves growing a population of these bacteria in the filter media. There are two common methods of doing this, ‘fish-in’ and ‘fish-less’.

The ‘fish-in’ method involves adding a small number of ‘hardy’ fish to the pond. Note that this method should only be used with great care, and under guidance from us, to safeguard the welfare of your fish. We can advise on what fish are most appropriate for your pond depending on how mature it is, and the water chemistry of your pond.

The ‘fish-less’ method involves adding a calculated dose of ammonia to your pond over several weeks. You will need to use an online ammonia calculator to work out how much ammonia needs to be added each day (based on the water volume of your pond and results from your water quality tests). There are also proprietary bacterial cultures available, which can help to ‘kick start’ maturing of your filter when following the manufacturer’s instructions. The addition of live plants will also help this process.

Whichever method you use, ammonia and nitrite levels should initially successively rise and then fall, while nitrate levels (the end product of filtration) will usually continue to rise, though more slowly in well-planted ponds. If you have added fish, it is important that the levels of these waste products do NOT rise above the guidelines given below. Regular partial water changes will be required (up to 10% weekly) as will regular water testing to monitor for any changes in water quality and to take action as necessary. Once the levels of ammonia and nitrite have dropped to zero and stay at zero continually, your pond filter is mature and stocking can continue slowly. Bear in mind, that each time you add more fish or increase feeding, a ‘mini’ maturation process will be required to allow for the numbers of beneficial bacteria in your filter to build up to deal with the extra amounts of waste produced.

Water quality guidelines for coldwater fish

Ammonia (NH3) Zero mg per litre Nitrite (NO2-) Zero mg per litre

Adding your fish

Before adding any fish, ensure that your pond is fully cycled and seek advice from us in choosing the species you are interested in. OATA has a Pond fish care sheet which covers the majority of commercially available fish. Different species will have different needs and it is important to understand these before purchase.

Only increase the number of fish in your pond slowly as the population of beneficial bacteria established when maturing your pond filter need to increase every time more fish are added and feeding increases. Overstocking or stocking your pond too quickly can result in ‘new pond syndrome’. This occurs when there are not enough nitrifying bacteria to cope with the increased waste load, leading to unhealthy levels of ammonia and nitrite, which stresses the fish severely and may cause fish to become ill or die.

Healthy fish have clear bright eyes, undamaged fins, intact scales, no ulcerations or bumps, appropriate swimming behaviour and steady breathing. Do not purchase a seemingly healthy fish if sickly fish are present in the pond or tank with it. Some diseases can be easily carried without fish showing any clinical signs. If in doubt, ask us for advice as we have in-depth knowledge and experience.

Stocking your pond

It is not possible to say exactly how many fish your pond can hold. The differences in body size, species requirements, water parameters and compatibility of fish available are vast. Ask us for advice on stocking densities for your size of pond and the species you would like to keep.

Aim to create a suitable environment for your chosen fish. Remember that decoration and plants take up space but are recommended additions as enrichment for your fish. Live plants help to remove nitrate and other waste products and can provide less boisterous and reclusive fish with a safe retreat. Overhanging bridges or decks can give shelter from the sun, and another place of sanctuary.

Diet and feeding requirements vary between species. Some feed at the surface, some will be found throughout the water column, while others will spend most time at the bottom of the pond. Some will also have specific dietary needs and will need specific foods to thrive. Be sure to have suitable food to cater for all of your fishes’ needs. It is also important to feed at the right time of year as a fish’s metabolism slows down during the winter and it may stop feeding entirely. A pond thermometer is very useful in helping to decide when and how much fish should be fed. For further information on feeding your pond fish throughout the year, ask us for advice.

Do not expect to fill your pond with as many fish as the stock ponds at Eden. We are able to stock our ponds more heavily than normal garden ponds due to our management expertise and advanced filtration systems.

Transporting and releasing your fish

First check that your new fish are compatible with those that you may already own and that the water quality in your pond is suitable i.e. levels of ammonia and nitrite are zero. It is also sensible to avoid introducing new fish into your pond during the winter months, when their immune system is inactive and temperatures in your pond may drastically differ from those at your local retailer. Most responsible retailers will not sell pond fish for outdoor ponds in the winter months. We will usually sell your fish to you in a plastic bag. Try not to keep them in this for too long. Once purchased, take your new fish home as quickly as possible as fish are easily stressed by bright lights, extreme temperatures, noise and movement.

Once home, your fish will need to acclimatise to their new environment and the

most common method to do this is known as the ‘floating bag’ method. Try to keep fish in a dark environment and take the bag containing your new fish out of its outer wrappings carefully, avoiding exposure to bright light.

Float the bag in the water of your pond for at least 20 minutes to ensure the temperature in the bag gradually changes to that of the pond water. It may be necessary to cover the bag with a towel to prevent the sun from warming the water inside the bag too much. After 20 minutes, open the bag and add some water from the pond. This will help the fish adjust to any differences in water chemistry. Some more sensitive species might require a longer period of mixing, but we will be able to advise you. After a further 10 minutes, you can open the bag and release the fish, or net them out of the bag and gently place them into the pond. Once released, dispose of the bag and any excess water appropriately. Monitor your new fish carefully for the first week, paying particular attention to water quality. If in any doubt, contact us for advice.

Maintenance

Your fish are totally reliant on you to keep them healthy, so your pond will require regular maintenance. Most tasks are relatively quick and simple:

Check the water quality regularly (at least once a week) to prevent the build-up of harmful wastes such as ammonia and nitrites. You may wish to test more frequently such as when setting up your pond and when adding fish.
Partial water changes are required to help remove excess waste chemicals. Before adding new tap water, make sure it is treated to make it safe for your fish. Frequency and size of water changes may vary according to what species you keep, the pond size, the number of fish you have and other factors such as plant growth. If in doubt, seek advice from us.

Check filters for blockages and fish waste build-up. Never rinse filter media under a tap since this will wash away and kill the beneficial bacteria. Instead, use some of the waste pond water from a routine water change to clean the filters.

Remember to cover any open cuts or wounds before putting your hands into a pond and always wash your hands immediately after any work around the pond, and before eating any food.

What to watch out for

All fish will have slight variations in their behaviour or appearance, but keeping an eye on any changes in the following will help to identify any potential problems before they become a real health issue:

swimming behaviour – hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom or erratic swimming
colour – turning a darker or paler colour than normal

temperament – changes in level of aggression or hiding more than normal breathing – gill covers moving at a slower or faster rate than normal appearance – development of white spots or fluffy growths, loss of fins or scales condition – increase or decrease in body weight and condition

feeding – reduced intake or lack of interest in food

If you are concerned about the health of any of your livestock, then test your water quality and contact us for further guidance.

Shopping List

As ponds can be set up to keep many different species, the fish you choose to keep will determine what equipment you need to purchase. As a general checklist, a pond should include:

A preformed pond or pond liner Filtration
Air pump
Live plants

Food (suited to your chosen fish)

A hosepipe
Water conditioner/dechlorinator Thermometer
Water testing kits (for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH as a minimum)

Water test kits will help you maintain good water quality for your fish so their purchase should be considered a necessity. Many OATA retailers will offer free water testing services and can provide advice on how to test your pond water at home.

Five Welfare Needs Checklist:

The Animal Welfare Act 2006 states that all pet owners have a legal duty of care to their pets. Anyone who is cruel to an animal or is found not to be providing the five animal welfare needs, as listed below, can be prosecuted.

A suitable environment e.g. appropriately sized tank (with water heater if tropical set up) within a suitable location in your home.
A suitable diet which meets the needs of your chosen fish.
Behaviour - Fish are able to exhibit their normal behaviour e.g. hiding places for timid fish, enough room for fish to swim freely.

Companionship - Ensure you know whether your chosen fish need to be kept with, or apart from, other fish.
Health - Protected from pain, injury, suffering & disease e.g. you are aware of the daily, weekly and monthly maintenance that your aquarium will need.

How to Be Plant Wise & pick the right plants for your garden pond

Water gardening is one of the most rewarding ways of using your garden, and a healthy mix of plant life in your pond will be great for wildlife as well as your fish. Aquatic plants improve water quality, provide food and act as a nursery for various species of wildlife. However, some plant species are invasive and can cause more harm than good to native flora and fauna. Please check out the Be Plant Wise campaign, which OATA supports, from the GB Non-Native Species Secretariat to find out more.

Invasive species

An invasive species is “any non-native animal or plant that has the ability to spread, causing damage to the environment, our economy, human health and the way we live”. You can check if a species is native to your region by visiting https://species.nbnatlas.org./ Invasive species can cause damage in different ways including, out-competing local species, introducing diseases and physically altering local ecosystems. Once established, invasive species can be very difficult to control and it may be impossible to reverse damage caused to the environment. To reduce the threat of invasive species, some species cannot be sold in the United Kingdom as they may pose a risk to native environments. Since most plant species that are sold for ponds have to survive all year in native conditions, they may be able to survive in other environments outside of the garden pond. Some plants sold for aquariums may have the ability to tolerate local conditions, so we do not recommend using aquarium plants in outdoor ponds. Below is a list of species, some of which have historically been sold for ponds or aquariums, but are now considered invasive and their sale is not permitted:

American Skunk Cabbage (Lysichiton americanus)
Australian Swamp Stonecrop/New Zealand Pigmyweed (Crassula helmsii) Cabomba (Cabomba caroliniana)
Canadian Waterweed (Elodea canadensis)
Chilian Rhubarb (Gunnera tinctoria)
Curly waterweed (Lagarosiphon major)
Floating Pennywort (Hydrocotyle ranunculoides)
Giant Salvinia (Salvinia molesta)
Nuttall’s Waterweed (Elodea nuttallii)
Parrot’s Feather (Myriophyllum aquaticum)
Senegal tea plant (Gymnocoronis spilanthoides)
Water Fern/Fairy Moss (Azolla filiculoides)
Water Hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes)
Water Primrose (Ludwigia grandiflora)

More information on these species, including helpful identification guides, can be found at:https://www.nonnativespecies.org/non-native-species/id-sheets/. If you purchase any of these plants by accident, it is best to return it to the place of sale. If this is not possible, invasive aquatic plants should be disposed of in the most appropriate way, which

may include composting, burning or burying plant material. See

https://www.nonnativespecies.org/what-can-i-do/be-plant-wise/what-can-i-do/ for Sept 2022

www.ornamentalfish.org info@ornamentalfish.org

more details. If in doubt on correct methods of disposal, email the GB Non-Native Species Secretariat using nnss@apha.gov.uk.

Good practice

There are three simple steps that all those involved with pond plants can take to easily and effectively reduce the risks posed by invasive pond plants.

Choose the right plants for your garden, pond and water features

Ensure that you only buy plants which are suitable for your set-up and are not considered invasive. A good way to do this is to choose native species, although you must not take any plants from the wild since this may damage the environment and is illegal unless you have the landowner’s permission and the species can be taken. Be careful when sharing garden plants because you may accidently pass on invasive species or plant diseases. It is illegal to share and sell some species, so always check that you have correctly identified your plants.

Keep your plants in your garden, don't plant them or allow them to grow in the wild

Let local native plants flourish by not introducing or disposing of any plants into wild habitats. This is also true for species which may be native in other areas of the country. Position new plants away from the edge of your garden so they cannot spread into the wild. Always regularly deadhead seed heads/pods of invasive species and dispose of them carefully. If going to other gardens or volunteering at a different location, always wash your tools and boots to prevent the spread of any unwanted plant material.

Dispose of your unwanted plants, roots, weeds, seeds and seed heads responsibly

Make sure that nothing from your aquarium or pond gets into wild habitats: you could be breaking the law and cause irreversible environmental impacts if it does. Some invasive species cannot be composted (e.g. Crassula helmsii), so check before putting them in your garden heap. Always make sure that any compost has been broken down properly before it is used again in the garden. In addition, some invasive species cannot be put in your council garden waste, so always check before putting them in the waste bin. Burning may be the only effective option for some species, but this should be done safely and in appropriate areas.

There are several other tips that you can follow when specifically dealing with aquatic plants:

When buying a new plant, remove the surface layer of compost and wash the plant in a bucket to remove any seeds or unwanted plant fragments before positioning it in your pond.
Use this and any other wastewater from your pond or aquarium on your lawn or to water plants in your garden, away from water bodies (or drains that flow into them) as it could contain fragments of invasive plants.

If your pond is near a wetland or water body, avoid using any plants which are not locally native and if any invasive plants appear, remove them before they spread into the wild.
Use unwanted aquatic plants in your garden as mulch, keeping this away from water bodies or drains.

Protect your pond life by leaving any plants you have removed on the edge of the pond to drain for a few hours to allow any wildlife to return to the water before disposing of them.
Pond animals and fish must never be released into the wild: it is illegal, they may not survive and if they do, they could harm native wildlife.